Trip to Mecula Mountain

On the 26^th October, 6 Americans arrived for a 10-night stay here at Lugenda Wilderness Camp. They came geared to the roof with camera equipment. Of the six, four of them it was a first time experience here in Africa. They didn’t see lion or leopard, but they were definitely entertained by elephant, baboons, monkeys, hippo and many of the other game that is to be seen here in Niassa National Reserve. Tsetse flies kept them awake all the time whilst on the vehicle, but on a few occasions, the odd nodder did occur!!!

Large elephant bull feeding.

"Hippo Pools"

Well this is the account of a trip we did up the “Great Mecula Mountain”. Mecula Mountain has the highest peak in the Niassa National Reserve. Peaking at around 1400m above sea level.

It was going to be a daunting and exciting journey for all of us, including Carri, and myself as it was going to be our first time up the mountain too. We had heard many stories about the getting there, and how difficult it was going to be and how cold it is up there. Well every word of those stories were true.

It was 31st October, and in the USA, it’s better known as “Halloween”. So what was going to be expected on top of the mountain!!!

A few days before we had discussed the possibility of using 2 days to go with the guests up the mountain. So after a good few days trying to get the “best” shot at a hippo, getting great sunset shots and even photos of a Flapped necked Chameleon, everyone was keen on the idea of getting to the top of Mecula.

Flap-necked Chameleon.

Mecula Mountain - Middle peak is our destination.

The “Great Trek” had started. Firstly we had to get all the equipment that we were going to need for the 2 days. This included bedrolls, chairs, and tables, cooking equipment; ice, which we knew, would run out, food and plenty of refreshments and water. Plenty water was a necessity, as we would be in open vehicles all the time. We made sure that there was enough “G &T’s” also packed, as we would be in need of those at the end of the day.

Vehicle packed and ready to go.

By the time we got going, we were 3 vehicles in convoy and six Lugenda staff, including Carri and myself. It honestly did look like an expedition that “Stanley” would have done; only difference is that now we had Land cruisers to help us along. We set off by 08h40, a bit later than we would of liked, and by the time we reached the Niassa Head Quarters around 12h00, already one vehicle had 4 flat tyres. We decided to stop here and have lunch, so Carri got that sorted, while some of the others and I, helped out with repairing flat tyres. Once through all that and every one had had a bite to eat and something to drink we headed on again.

Carri, Skeeter and Tome packing up after lunch. - Photo by Doyle Allen

Getting tyres repaired. - Photo by Doyle Allen

On the way we managed to get a quick glimpse of the some Bohm’s Zebra and an old bull buffalo, which was looking like he was on last limbs, as he looked very thin. The road was put in many years ago, but had not being driven on for a few months already. Fires had being through the area, which made driving a lot easier as there was no long grass to contend with to. We got to the base of the mountain after about 40 minutes then started the climb. The first part was ok with us going through small pockets of bamboo thickets and rocky areas. Then the climbing started. The first climb was the worst. I went through, and great that these vehicles have 4 wheel drive and diff-lock, as without diff-lock you battle, as was seen in the second vehicle. We eventually had 4 of us heavy waits on the front to give it more traction. This session took us a while, but in the end we all got through.

Inspecting a dodgy bridge. - Photo by Doyle Allen

Crossing the dodgy bridge. - Photo by Doyle Allen

Getting up the worst climb. - Photo by Bryan Allen

Manual labour needed to get this one up. - Photo by Bryan Allen

Over-heating problems at the top of a bad incline. - Photo by Bryan Allen

By the time we got to the top, we had to cut a few fallen trees out the way and with my vehicle having a over-heating problem we eventually made it to the top, at around 16h50, in time for the guests to get some good sunset shots. All in all it was a 9 hour trip getting there.

We then got unpacking, with everyone helping. Some of us went looking for water to us for a small bath, as we did not have enough for that, whilst the others set up tables and bedrolls and got the food on the go. We even had freshly made bread done on the top of the mountain. Dinner was a braai, including boerewors, eland steaks, fresh bread, potatoes and onions in tinfoil on the fire and a salad. Dessert was just more warm gin and tonics as the ice had already melted away, red wine, cheese and biscuits and a chocolate or 2.

Little Issa making bread for dinner. - Photo by Doyle Allen

Preparing for a round of drinks. - Photo by Doyle Allen

Looking west.

Our staff.

Dinner is ready.

Time to relax and think of the day gone by.

Next morning we were up early, some went for a stroll around the mountain taking photos. It felt like we needed more time on the mountain to explore a bit, as the forest and natural springs called for more exploration. Bird life is fantastic up here given some time!!! There were signs of buffalo, elephant and zebra on top.

"THE CAMERA EQUIPMENT"

We got breakfast going, which consisted of coffee, tea, cookies, toast and scrambled egg and bacon mixed. After that we then got packed up and then started for the decent. It was a lot easier to get down the mountain, and it was also done in a shorter time. We encountered one puncture, which was before we even left, but there were no other mechanical issues for the return journey back to Lugenda.

Our sleeping quarters. - Photo by Bryan Allen

Our Breakfast view!

 

Carri and I had just woken up.

Rustling up some bacon.

Breakfast with a view. - Photo by Bryan Allen

We arrived back at Lugenda around 14h00 and had a good clean and lunch and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing, as many hours were spent in the sun, so being in the shade was a great relief.

Getting ready for the great downhill drive.

All down in one piece.

One of the last mornings I had a few takers for the morning safari. So we decided to try and follow up on the buffalo tracks that we had seen close to the camp the afternoon before. Well once onto the freshest tracks we used the wind to great advantage and did a big circle around the herd. This was the best thing we did as the breeze that morning was not great at all for walking into game.

Once ahead of the herd we then decided to climb one of the near by inselbergs and waited there for them. We waited about 5 minutes, when the herd started to appear from the Miombo woodland into a small clearing in front of us. They had no idea that we were there, until the front part of the herd picked our sent up from where we had crossed on the path that they were moving along. That automatically spooked them. Turning a whole 180 degrees, they charged off about 20meters then stopped and turned again to face their original direction. They hung around for about ten to fifteen minutes when they decided to move on again. What a great sighting, especially to see them just moving as a group, without them knowing that we were there.

Buffalo. - Photo by Doyle Allen

Buffalo on the move. - Photo by Doyle Allen

All in all a great trip was had by all, and having such great company always makes for a great time!!!

I would just like to say thanks Bryan Allen and his Father for the use of some of the pictures they took on this trip, which are used in this post.

Walking and some good Birding

The seasons have changed and we are now entering into the very hot time of the year. October is often called “the death month”, and well, that is very true. The area is so dry now, rivers are low, it’s dusty and the bush really needs some rain now. Even without rain we are seeing newborn warthogs, impala and Liechtenstein Hartebeest.

Other than the bush looking, a bit miserable, we have managed to some very good sightings of animals on walks and bird sightings have being quite good.

One afternoon Nic followed up on some drag marks across the road. It was obvious to him and his tracker that a lion had killed something and then dragged it off. This always gets one very interested and wanting to know what is at the other side. So they decided to follow up. After about a kilometre and a half of tracking through burn’t areas, the drag mark started to lead up to one of the smaller inselbergs. They then started to smell the stench of the carcass, but could not see anything. When all of a sudden they saw a lioness. A cub was also seen at the time. At first the lions moved off, then the female stopped and turned, and charged at Nic and the guests and stopping 15 meters short. By now the adrenalin is pumping so much, you can also feel your heart pounding so much it feels like it wants to jump out of you body. By now the lioness had laid flat on the ground, growling at them and her tail swishing from side to side. By then it was obviously time to retreat back slowly, to which they did.

Another moment on walk, that Nic had, was also a lion encounter. This time they head on a morning walk into the Ngalonge mountain range. They got walking on one of the big elephant paths that pass all the way through the range. You can just imagine what these paths have seen all these years. If only these paths could speak!!!! Anyway all was going well and great birds were seen, such as Purple Crested Turaco, Bohms’ and White fronted Bee-eaters and many Trumpeter Hornbills. They also had a sighting of a single bushbuck. They then decided to take a break from the morning heat, and were quenching their thirst when the Yellow baboons and Samango monkeys started to give off alarm calls. When there is a possible predator close to any of these primates they will let the whole world know that there is danger in the area. So Nic and the guests decided to pursue and see what the whole commotion was about. Following the alarm calls they started to follow a small stream that was leading parallel with the game path, they started to near an open clearing which looked as if it also could be the source of the stream. As they where approaching, three lions shot up from their mid morning siesta and bolted. They managed to get a quick view of them, and then once again, but then they vanished into the bamboo thickets.

View into the Ngalonge Mountain range.

Now, when one thinks of the two incidents, what great sightings they were. As too see a lion on foot is always a privilege and one must not forget of the dangers that may happen. This is two different scenarios, with two different reactions from the lions. The first one was a lion feeling she needed to protect here young and the second one feeling that they would rather move away quickly, as they obviously had not encountered to many humans on foot.

Another great walking experience was one of Nic and his guests being approached by a honey badger, which seemed to have its mind in a total different world. When it eventually got to within 10 meters of them, it realised that this was no place to be and turned and high-tailed it away from them. Nic jokingly said afterwards that all the guys needed to hold onto their crowned jewels….. Honey Badgers are known to be very aggressive to any thing that is perceived to be a threat to them and would not hesitate to latch onto the vulnerable areas!!!!!

Birding has also being great this month. Here is a list of some of the good sightings that we have had of birds in and around the concession.

Bohms’ Bee-eater

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

Bohms’ Spinetail

Spectacled Weaver

African Skimmer

African Hawk Eagle - feeding on a francolin

Ayres’ Hawk Eagle - a first for me

White-breasted Cuckoo shrike

Martial Eagle

Bateleur

Yellow-throated Longclaw

Pale-billed Hornbill

Lizzard Buzzard – feeding on Four-toed elephant shrew

Shikra

Helmeted Guinea fowl – a lot of them around at the moment

Crested Guinea fowl

Red-throated Twinspot

Eastern Nicator

Cabanis Bunting

African Hawk Eagle with Francolin.

Spectacled Weaver.

Ayres' Hawk Eagle.

Next post will be soon, and will be on fly camping and our trip up Mecula Mountain (which includes some serious low range driving - not for the faint hearted!!)

Watch this space!

Month of the Leopard

Firstly just like to say that we have being very busy this past month, so apologies for no updates on the last month. This past month of September has really being quite an exciting one, and one with a bit of misery on some of the animals part!! Will get to those stories in a while.

We have managed to do a few canoe safaris, and just in time, as the water has gotten very shallow now. The other problem was that we had to battle our way through a few of the local fishermen’s “barrages”. These are obstructions that they use for catching fish at this time of the year, in the deeper pools of water. Canoe safaris take about 2 hours to get down river to our afternoon sun downer spot, but on one occasion we got really jammed up with the “barrages”, and we only got to our pick-up spot in the dark, a bit nerve racking!!!!! We have found that it’s more productive in the afternoon as game is starting to move down to the river for a last drink before the evening sets in.

Elephants on canoe safari.

Weary Elephants as we canoe past.

Coming back from morning walk.

We managed to see some good sightings of bull elephants, with some being quite large in body size, as well as some having some good ivory on them. For me, I feel that seeing such large and old bull elephants is more of a thrill and exciting, than seeing lions lying about in the grass!!! Sounds crazy but it’s true. This day and age to see large bull elephants with a large set of tusks on them is a very rare site, some of you will agree!!! Anyway other sightings whilst on the river have being of a pod of hippo numbering about 15-20 individuals. We also have seen numerous waterbuck, few bushbuck, impala and kudu. Bird sightings have also being good on the river, with sightings of Pied, Giant and Half-collared Kingfishers; African Skimmers (which is a near-threatened species), Marabou storks, Grey and Green-backed Heron, White-headed Lapwing and the odd Hamerkop.

White Headed Vulture.

Game drives have also being quite productive, especially on the “spotted cat”. No fewer than 9 sightings in September, which is absolutely fantastic for us here. We will have to call Nic, who helps out from time to time on the guiding side, the “LEOPARD MAN”. On one particular evening Nic saw some tracks of a leopard moving back towards the camp. They then moved off the main road into the bush. With the airstrip being in that direction they decided to go and have a look there. They scratched around there, when they spotted the leopard sitting on top of a termite mound. Just as they were watching some impala started to move closer and had no idea that the leopard was there, when as quick as a flash the leopard was tackling the male impala in the group. With it having the impala by the throat it was suffocating it. Then something disturbed it and it let it go and moved into the bush. Nic then decide to just wait and see what would happen next, as the impala was still on the ground. A few minutes later the impala started to stagger to its feet, when out of the bush, like lighting the leopard pounced on it again. After a few minutes it let go of its grip and moved off again into the bush so then that was when Nic decided to leave it, as they had had a good sighting already. You probably find that it has never had a vehicle watching it with its kill. Well that was Lugenda’s first and hopefully not the last time that we will see a leopard in full swing trying to kill its quarry.

Other sightings through the month have included elephant bulls and family groups, a good number of sable, Liechtenstein’s hartebeest, Boehms zebra, Niassa wildebeest have being seen this month as well, and this is quite good as these are generally quite hard to find, and the best place to spot them has being around the Dambo grasslands. But most drives we do see kudu, johnsons impala, waterbuck, warthog, duiker, bushbuck mostly along the main river systems in the dense riverine thickets. A few sightings of bushpig have also being seen by Nic and his guests this month.

Young Male Leopard on evening drive.

Two Male Sable.

Large Kudu Bull.

For the “birders/twitchers”, things have being looking good. We have found the Taita Falcons, and they are still in the same area as they were in last year. Early mornings about 30 minutes after sunrise, have being good for sightings of them, as they seem to be a lot more active then. The pair of Verreaux’s (Black) eagles are also on the same nest site that they were about 2 years ago, and we have a had couple of good sightings of them soaring above us at low altitudes. Climbing up to the nest site is not for the faint hearted, I warn you!!!!! Other good sightings have being of pair of African Crowned Eagles, Bohm’s Bee-eaters, Bohm’s Spinetail, Barred Owlet, African Harrier Hawk raiding a White-browed Sparrow-weavers nest, Southern Ground Hornbills, Bateleur, White Headed Vultures. Migrants should be starting to move back from North Africa and the continent, as our summer is well on its way now. One specie, I will keep you all updated on, is the African Pitta. As soon as the first call has being heard I will sound the alarm for all who are interested!!

Adult Verreaux Black Eagle at nest sight,

The last bit of news doesn’t end to well, for one of many elephants. SENSITIVE PICTURES TO FOLLOW.

 I decided to do a walk on the opposite bank to our camp with guests. It was also their last morning and we had a shortened morning, due to their flight. Anyway we canoed across the Lugenda River, to the confluence of the Namaquesso and Lugenda River. As we got onto the bank a short briefing was done. Then it was like reading the latest “morning paper” on the sand and it went something like this, “good morning all, the local herd of buffalo had a drink around 04h00, just after them possibly 2 male lion popped in and found that the buffalo could make a good meal so they pushed on behind the buffalo”.

So after looking to see what else had being happening on the sand, we decided to push on as well, and follow up on the buffalo tracks. My tracker, Jaime, had the “dust sock”, and this really came in good use. After about 45 minutes of being on the buffalo tracks we had a distant view of them, this is when the “dust sock” did its thing. Shaking it every so often we were able to keep down wind from the buffalo all the time. We eventually were able to get to with in 50 meters of the herd, where we stuck ourselves behind some good cover and a drainage line on the opposite side to them, where we could sit down and watch them grazing. After about 20 minutes, we decided to back off and leave them in peace, which we did. What a great sighting, especially when they are not aware of your presence.

After leaving the buffalo, we decided to move back to the river as time was running away out. Like normal, when you are having so much fun there always seems to be a shortage of time!!! Anyway we went a different route back, and after crossing a dry riverbed, there was just a mass of vultures in the distant trees. Firstly I thought to myself maybe those lions that were in the area made a kill, then something else came to mind, and that was “this could possibly be another poaching incident”. I informed the guests of my thoughts and they said that’s fine let’s see. After a quick briefing, on if anything was to be encountered, we then went into investigate. What we found was not an elephant killed by lions, but an elephant that had being poached by humans!!!! It looked about 2 days old. We walked around the carcass a bit and found that the lions had being there and moved off as we started nearing them, as their were tracks of them moving away very quickly.

 I wont go into the details of the carcass, but the following pictures might be sensitive to some people, so you have being warned!!!!

Poached Elephant.

Poached Elephant.

 We did hear that about 4-6 other elephants had being poached on the opposite bank. Walking back, it was quite a sombre mood, and I am sure the guests’ thoughts were focussed on what we had just seen.

Well that’s all for this moment in time will put another post up in the near future.

Preparing for dinner on the mountain overlooking Lugenda River.

Sunset at dinner time.

Time in the bush with guests 23 - 27 August

We started off leaving camp around 15H00, and took a slow drive along the River road, and hoping that we could stumble upon some elephant, and that we did! It was a group of three young bull elephants. They were very relaxed with our presence, but I must say that we did have the breeze in our favour. We sat with these bulls for about 30 minutes, it felt like an hour, and they gave us good photographic opportunities. One could really see all the hairs on their bodies and long eye lashes.   

2010 - Elephant approaching us. 

We carried on with the afternoon drive and saw numerous Johnson's impala, a breeding herd of elephant, waterbuck, warthog and bushbuck.

After having a great sunset, with drinks and some snacks, we started to head back to camp. We managed to surprise a Large Spotted Genet, who posed nicely for the cameras. But unfortunately all my pictures of the Genet where out of focus.

2010 - Three young bulls.

The next morning we set out around 06H00 and the sighting of the morning was definitely that of the 16 Niassa Wildebeest. These are an endemic specie to the area, and are also not as common as one would think, especially when you talk about "wildebeest" "They are suppose to be everywhere", as one guest put it. About 5 minutes before we came across the Niassa Wildebeest, we saw a young bull elephant by itself. We probably gave him a fright as we came around the corner, as he did give us the "hairy eyeball". He then persisted in giving us warnings and trumpeting at us. The only thing we could do was to stand our ground, and eventually after about 10 minutes he meandered into the bushes, always giving us that little side look that elephants like to do when they are slightly agitated.

2010 - Niassa Wildebeest.

 2010 - Johnson's Impala (endemic to the area).
  

In the afternoon, I suggested that we go on the river and do an afternoon canoe trip down river. It takes about 2 hours, and we generally stop close to the area where we normally see hippo. When I said canoe trip on the river, I could see everyones brains ticking with the thoughts of " hippo attacking me" "what if we fall in and there are hippos and crocos". Well after the briefing about being on the river and what to do and what not to do, everone was ready for the trip.
When you are on the river you do encounter the locals (fisherman) on the islands and on the sand banks. They just seem to be part of the system now!!
What I was hoping for, was what we got. Another 3 bull elephants, but different ones to the afternoon before. To see them feeding on the banks and not being sure of what we are when you slowly drift towards and passed them is all very exciting stuff.
We also saw waterbuck, bushbuck and some kudu as we carried on down the river to our pick up point.

2010 - Viewing elephants from Canoes.

 

 2010 - Sundowers after a good canoe trip.

The following morning, we decided that if we found any fresh buffalo tracks, that we would follow up on foot. Everyone was in agreement. This is generally the only way we do get to see them, as they are still nervous of the presence of a vehicle close by to them. After half an hour into the morning drive we got some tracks, and good ones they were. The excitement started!! I parked us on one of the smaller inselbergs close to where we had the tracks. We then got walking. Buanar my tracker kept his eyes to the tracks and had his "sock of dust", for which is used to check wind direction all the time. I was behind him looking ahead. Its important to keep checking wind direction as these buffalo will smell you a mile away and will be gone.
An hour passed when we started to slow down as the buffalo where difinately getting close, as the their pattys "Pooh" where getting greener!! Then we saw them ahead of us about 50 meters,  it was only part of the herd, that we could see.

2010 - Buffalo bull giving us the stare!!

At that time they were not aware of us so we could get a good view some of them. Then all of a sudden one of them turned and ran, and then the whole herd followed, luckily in the opposite direction to us. We waited for a while, then followed again, this time the wind was more constant and in our favour for a long time. Everyone got a good view again and for the last time as we left them and moved back to the vehicle.

Well thats all till the next safari!!